That tower, for its part, is mediaeval, an add-on by Rome's powerful Frangipani family who recycled Circus masonry for defensive purposes. Landmarking the 19th century, to grind grain for the Roman populace there is a mill powered by the Marrana water-course running underground. Picture next orti di guerra, summer-camps for Mussolini’s youth movement, exhibitions and sporting displays prematurely celebrating long-lost grandeur while archaeologists come and go, excavating the area, covering it up again so it can resume an agricultural function. Another decade and in pompa triumphalis AS Roma's Francesco Totti lifts high lo Scudetto in football triumph. Reverse two summers earlier, Mick Jagger appears and disappears in a jumping jack flash. In a flurry of spotlights there’s David Gilmour, then Bruce Springsteen and the E-Street Band. But for a man slowly walking his dachshund, the vast oval of grass and tawny-coloured gravel lies empty. Axa, Casal Palocco, Infernetto districtsĮxploring the history of Rome's Circus Maximus by taking reverse laps back to its beginnings.Įarly morning.
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